I was pretty sad to be leaving Buenos Aires, but that feeling didn’t last long. I was headed for the ancient city of Cusco in the Sacred Valley of Peru. The Inti Raymi, or Festival of the Sun, is one of the largest gatherings of Native People every year and an important part of their cultural heritage. When I arrived, the cab driver informed me that over 500,000 people come to Cusco every year for the weeklong festival. I was excited at the prospect of seeing the traditional dances and music and seeing the smiling faces of the native Andean people wearing their most colorful handmade outfits.

Cusco itself is an odd place, with a not so harmonious mix of ancient Incan, colonial Spanish, and Modern day tourism. I came to Cusco to experience traditional Peruvian culture, but was surprised to see the place overrun with gringos! Even worse, it seems that tourism has become somewhat of a virus there and it has nearly transformed the place into a tourist trap. The main square was packed with touristy shops selling brightly colored cheap souvenirs. It was hard to walk down the street without being harassed to buy postcards, shine your shoes or “massage meester”. You quickly learned the most common phrase spoken in Cusco…”!no, gracias!”. There is a pub in town that sells a shirt with that printed on it!

That being said, Cusco is actually a really beautiful place. The city is bilt on a foundation of ancient Incan stone work, with large walls of massive stones seamlessly constructed which line the winding cobblestone streets. Numerous gothic Spanish cathedrals and monasteries tower above the other buildings. The odd thing, however, is that many of the Spanish structures were built on top of destroyed Incan buildings, especially the religious sites. I came to discover that when the Spanish conquered the Incan people here, they tore down the religious buildings, except for the foundations which were way too massive, and built their catholic cathedrals in their place. It is a testament to the Incan stonemasons that their original work still forms the foundation of every major Spanish construction.

One of the difficulties of getting around Cusco and the Sacred Valley is adjusting to the altitude there. At an elevation of over 10,000 feet, the oxygen gets pretty scarce up there. The city is partially built on the side of a mountain, so you are constantly walking up streets that go uphill for a long way. On my first day, I made the mistake of picking a hostel that was halfway up one of these ridiculously steep streets. With my 3 backpacks, it nearly killed me…thank goodness it was only halfway! But once I got there, the view from the roof was totally worth it.Of course, everywhere you go they have coca tea which is a way to help combat the headache and fatigue of altitude sickness. Doesn’t really help the lungs though…and no, it doesn’t give you a buzz either!

On my first day walking around I had a nice surprise. I ran into one of the people I had met earlier in Lima and who I was supposed to meet up with here in Cusco, so that saved me the touble of going looking for them. Matt, Manuela, Maria, and I were reunited and decided to stay together while we were there. We had some great times and some terrible hangovers together! (we came to discover that Cusco is also a major Gringo party spot…go figure!).

We spent the next few days wandering around the city, taking in the sights, sounds, smells and tastes of the Inti Raymi festival. The main square was jam packed with peple watching the never ending parade of dancers, performers and musicians. At first I was fascinated by the performances and music but after a few days it became a little overwhelming. It was great to watch the young kids do the traditional dance of their ancestors. Each dance was almost like a drama as the performers acted out various roles. I was also drawn to the rainbow of colors worn by the native people. Speaking of rainbows, the Cusco flag bears a striking resemblance to another well known flag in the States…haha!

The festivities continued far into the night with massive parties in the squares filled with steaming food and buckets of flavored alcoholic Chicha. People played games and mingled with friends and family from far off places. It was interesting to see the groups of people from similar areas because they all dressed. The women all wore the same types of men’s hats and the men wore hats with tassles, beads and fuzzy balls! We couldn’t stay very long for the party because some of the men were getting pretty drunk and rowdy, so we went to a more “gringo friendly” dance party at this wild club where you had to buy or make a pair of wings to get in!

INTI RAYMI FESTIVAL

The next day was the culmination of the Festival with the Inti Raymi ceremony on the historic grounds of the Sacsayhuaman site above the city. We marched up the mountain with thousands of other locals, natives and gringos all headed to the same place. The festival site was an enormous amphitheater fashioned out of gigantic carved stones and cliffs surrounding an open field where the ceremony would take place. We took our spot in the cheap seats on the cliffs with the locals. Over the next few hours, thousands of people filed in an covered the surrounding hills in a brightly colored tapestry of humanity. There were all sorts of interesting things going on from political demonstrations, snake-oil salesmen, and shamanistic rituals.

The Inti Raymi, or Fetival of the Sun is held every year on the winter solstice, when the sun is farthest from the earth. Fearing the lack of sun and ensuing famine, the ancient Incas gathered to honor the Sun God and plead for his return. The celebrants fasted for days before the event, refrained from physical pleasures and presented gifts to the Inca, who in return put on a lavish banquet of meat, corn bread, chicha and coca tea as they prepared to sacrifice llamas to ensure good crops and fertile fields.

In 1572, Viceroy Toledo banned Inti Raymi celebrations as pagan and contrary to the Catholic faith. Following the edict, the ceremonies went underground.

During the preceding year, in preparation for Inti Raymi, hundreds of actors are chosen to represent historical figures. Being selected to portray the Sapa Inca or his wife, Mama Occla, is a great honor.

On the festival day, the ceremonial events begin with an invocation by the Sapa Inca in the Qoricancha square in front of the Santo Domingo church, built over the ancient Temple of the Sun. Here, the Sapa Inca calls on the blessings from the sun. Following the oration, Sapa Inca is carried on a golden throne, a replica of the original which weighed about 60 kilos, in a procession to the ancient fortress of Sacsayhuaman, in the hills above Cuzco. With the Sapa Inca come the high priests, garbed in ceremonial robes, then officials of the court, nobles and others, all elaborately costumed according to their rank, with silver and gold ornaments.

They walk along flower-bedecked streets, to music and prayers and dancing. Women sweep the streets to clear them of evil spirits. At Sacsayhuamán , where huge crowds await the arrival of the procession, Sapa Inca climbs to the sacred altar where all can see him.

Once all the celebrants are in place in the grand square of the fortress, there are speeches by Sapa Inca, the priests and representatives of the Suyos: the Snake for the world below, the Puma for life on earth, and the Condor for the upper world of the gods.
A white llama is sacrificed (now in a very realistic stage act) and the high priest holds aloft the bloody heart in honor of Pachamama. This is done to ensure the fertility of the earth which in combination with light and warmth from the sun provides a bountiful crop. The priests read the blood stains to see the future for the Inca.

As the sun begins to set, stacks of straw are set on fire and the celebrants dance around them to honor Tawantinsuty or the Empire of the Four Wind Directions. In ancient times, no fire was allowed that day until the evening fires.

The ceremony of Inti Raymi ends with a procession back to Cuzco. Sapa Inca and Mama Occla are carried on their thrones, the high priests and representatives of the Supas pronounce blessings on the people. Once again, a new year has begun.

SACRED VALLEY

I spent the next few days seeing some of the other sites in the Sacred Valley. I saw some really interesting ruins perched on the side of high mountains. For some reason the Incan people of Peru loved to build things in the highest, most precarious places possible, with tiny stairs that go straight up the cliff. My recurring thought between bouts of vertigo and loss of breath was, “what the hell was wrong with these people?” Haha.

I also spent some time learning about the local arts and crafts in the region. I went to a weavers collective where they had an amazing display detailing the process involved in creating the intricate textiles that all the native people were wearing.

It all starts with the alpacas, lamas, or vicunas that provide the warm wool which the women spin into yarn. They do this on small spindles that they carry everywhere, and anytime they have a free moment you can see them spinning away. Then they hand dye the wool in pots over the fire, creating a dazzling spectrum of colors from natural sources.

The skills and patterns are passed down from the older generations. The young children begin with tiny little straps that they often sell in the streets, and then work their way up through belts, hats and scarves until they reach adulthood and can master the intricate patterns of large blankets and rugs. By the time they are grandparents they are true masters of the craft.

This particular collective is attempting to provide a means of support and training so that the knowledge of these master craftsmen will not disappear. There were a couple of older weavers doing work there, and it was amazing to watch them. This one older woman was creating this intricate pattern, and her fingers were moving so fast that you could barely see them. The whole experience definitely gave me a much deeper appreciation of the crafts that I saw people wearing in the streets.

MACCHU PICCHU

Meanwhile my friends were trekking along the Incan Trail on their way to Machu Picchu. I was planning to meet them there on the day they arrived at the site. Unfortunately the tour operators are booked up to 6 months in advance, and are pretty expensive, so I couldn’t go with them.

I was soon to find out though that anyway you get to Machu Picchu is expensive. The “milk the tourist” mentality has extended almost all the way to the gates of the ancient site itself. They have almost turned it into a tourist trap with look alike restaurants and people hawking souvenirs on every corner. Not to mention the price of admission has doubled in the past year. And the train and bus you take to get there are priced about 1o times higher than any other route in the country. You can actually travel across the country for the same price as the 15 min ride up to Machu Picchu.

Fortunately, when you step out onto the ledge overlooking the site perched in the middle of an almost otherworldy valley…it still lives up to its legend. It is truly an amazing location and example of the Incans blend of the natural world with impossible stonework structures. The mountains there appear like giant spires rising straight into the air and forming a protected cove in which Machu Picchu is the center piece. A light fog rolling up from the river circling far below and the sun’s rays slanting in over the towering peaks set the stage for the mystical atmosphere of this sacred site.

Soon after I arrived, I met up with my friends just reaching the end of the Inca trail. They were definitely tried, but excited to finally have arrived at their destination. We spent a few hours touring the sites and learning about the ritualistic meaning of the architecture and the history of the people who lived here.

Later, we climbed one of the towering spires adjacent to the site named Wayna Picchu. It took almost an hour and a half – straight up! Along the way we were passed by several Peruvians who were casually jogging up the sheer face. Once again I ask “what the hell is wrong with these people?” or better yet, “excuse me, can I borrow your lungs?!” Panting and sweating we finally reached the top and were rewarded with a specatular view of the ruins and the valley spread out below us.

We spent a few hours up there and then my friends started making their way down. I was feeling a little exhausted at this point, so I decided to take a little siesta on one of the ledges overlooking the abyss below. When I groggily awoke a little while later, I was astonished to find myself completely alone. I meditated for a long time, soaking in the silence and vast expanse before me. It was a truly peaceful end to a very rewarding cultural and spiritual experience.

OLLANTAYTAMBO

A couple of days later, I had the opportunity to witness a smaller version of the Inti Raymi festival held in the small mountain village of Ollantaytambo. I actually preferred this festival to the chaos and crowds of the main festival in Cusco. The performance was much more accessible and I was able to get much better photos of the performers and dancers. I was also able to get some great shots of local children watching the colorful spectacle. The entire event was held on the steep terraces of the ancient ruins that were lined with children decked out in colorful costumes and holding those infamous rainbow flags.

After the performance I spent several hours wandering around trying delicious food and chatting with the local people. I also met a fun group of kids from around the world who were forming a little hippy circus troupe that did clown acts, juggling, and fire performances. It was really fun to see some of the locals who had performed earlier curiously watching the impromptu show.

After a few more nights in Cusco, I was ready for a change of pace and needed to start making my way up through Peru and back to Ecuador to meet my father for our trip to the Galapagos Islands. It was hard to leave my new friends, but such is the life of the solo traveler. We said our goodbyes and I made my way to the airport.

LAST DAYS IN PERU

After a couple of grueling days dealing with the less than efficient transportation system in Peru (I’m being nice here), I spent one final night in one of the costal beach towns.

If you have ever been to a beautiful lush tropical beach with warm breezes, fresh coconuts and beautiful bikini clad women lying around…this ain’t it. Try cold winds, heavy surf and gray, featureless sand surrounded by bleak desert. Not my version of paradise!

However, the next morning was calmer and warmer and I caught an interesting show out on the waves. Two couples were practicing some acrobatic surfing moves. They would paddle out, catch a wave, and then the girls would jump up into the guys arms and do these impossible poses and flips as the guys was holding them in the air and maintaining balance the whole time. I was pretty impressed by their athleticism and grace and spent a couple of hours trying to get some good shots of them. Eventually it was time to go, so I caught a typically overcrowded bus and headed for the Ecuador border.

!Adios Peru!